NEEDLES

Do you ever wonder how dim you can actually manage to be some days? I had one of those moments recently as I was doing one of those quick jobs that end up taking faaaaaaaaarrrrrr to long. I was stitching some really thick elastic for a belt and my thread kept mangling up on me beautifully. Why is this doing this I thought, using only one brain cell , the other two busy helping my three year old colour in a princess picture. Pink of course , what other colour is there when your 3? After a bobin change, re- thread and tension altering it still looked like a birds nest. It was only when later when I was driving along that I realised ... NEEDLE!

La di da, Twas the needle m'lord not the idiot behind the machine, honest!

So here is a post on them there little pointy things that can cause so much trouble when you forget about them! The text below is not written by me but I saw it a while back on a web site and thought it would be useful to novice sewers. I have to say that the numbers might be confusing and this may well be from an american source and so needle numbers may be different to european. But If you use the general description of what the needle is like and its uses rather than the number I think its really helpful. I know I have needles from all over the place and the numbers do vary. Lastly I cant remember where the text is taken from, but when i do i will name check it. but for now here is some usefull info on needles...

• Sharp points (regular) are for use with woven fabrics (including cotton and linen etc) because they cause a minimum amount of puckering and produce an even stitch without damaging the fabric. These are not recommended for use with knits as they can cause skipped stitches. Sharp points are more slender through the shaft and should be used when edge stitching on woven fabrics, sewing on finely woven fabrics or heirloom stitching on very fine fabrics. They are also a good choice when sewing with synthetic suede. These needles come in varying sizes from the finest size 9 to the heaviest size 18.
• Universal Point needleshave a slightly rounded point that is similar to the ball point needle and is used for general, every day sewing of most woven or knit fabrics. The needle is tapered so that it slips through the fabric weave of the knit easily whilst still retaining enough sharpness to pierce the cloth. It is usually Universal needles that come with your sewing machine. They come in many different sizes with the 14/90 and the 11/75 being the most popular.
• Ball Point needles are specifically designed to be used with knit and stretch fabrics. They have a rounded point rather than a sharp one (the larger the size of the needle, the more rounded the needle point) and they push between the fabric yarns rather than piercing them the way the Sharp Points do. The needles should be used when sewing with interlock knits, coarse knits and other fabrics that will run if snagged. The needles come in varying sizes from 9 to 16. The larger the size of the needle, the more rounded the needle point is.
• Embroidery needles have a larger needle eye to accommodate the thicker embroidery threads. They are also designed to protect the decorative threads from breaking.
• Quilting needles (called Betweens) have a tapered point that allows you to stitch through several layers of fabric (usually the quilt sandwich) and across intersecting seams. They have a tapered point to prevent damaging the often heirloom quality fabrics used in quilting. They are generally smaller and stronger than normal needles with a small eye. They come in sizes 9,10,11,and 12.
• Topstitching needles are for use with heavier topstitching thread and as such have an extra large eye and a deeper groove. They can also be used with a double thread for a more pronounced stitch. Using the correct top stitching needle can make a real difference to the finished look of your project.
• Wedge Point needles are used less often as they are designed for use with leather and vinyl. They easily pierce the fabrics and create a hole that will close back up on itself. The wedge shape makes it a superior needle for piercing tough, unyielding fabrics such as leather or suede. These needles come in varying sizes from 11 to 18. The smaller sizes are suitable for softer, more pliable leather, whilst the larger sizes are designed for heavy leathers, or multiple layers.

• Delicate Fabrics: When sewing with fabrics such as silk, chiffon, voile, fine lace or organza a fine “size 9″ needle would usually be the best choice.
• Lightweight Fabrics: When using lighter weight fabrics such as synthetic sheers, batiste, taffeta or velvet would a “size 11″ needle would be the normal choice.
• Medium Weight Fabrics:When sewing with slightly heavier weight fabrics such as gingham, poplin, linen, muslin, chambray, wool crepe, flannel, knits, jersey, wool, wool suiting, or stretch fabrics a “size 14″ needle is generally best.
• Medium-Heavy Fabrics:Sewing with fabrics such as gabardine, heavy suiting or tweed would require a “size 16″ needle.
• Heavy Fabrics: When using heavy weight fabrics such as denim, ticking, upholstery or canvas a “size 18″ needle is the most suitable.

SHORT CHANGED

Do you ever get the feeling you've been short changed or at the very least domestically challenged? The other day this is what my other half rustled up for himself as a brunch. OK so he'd been up working since five, but hey, it didn't make washing up the cereal bowls any sweeter..

GREY DAY

A little bit of grey. Re jigging some of my daughters old makes in the hope that she will willingly wear one one day. does anyone else have this problem? i used to take it personally but after seeing the skirt she chose for herself in the shops the other day i feel a little better. sun glasses , tetanus, and anti sparkle lotion were all required.

So im feeling the grey thing , the skirt came out a little too flared but all it needed was a little calming down with a half hour pin down.

I am looking forward to using these though, some Cosmo Cricket Early Bird Crosshatch in green and yellow should make a great every day skirt for me and Ryly Blakes Rainy days and Mondays Retro umbrellas should make the little one smile.

SHOPS

Ella Dorans shop front in Cheshire Street, London.www.elladoran.co.uk

A few weeks ago I got the opportunity to show some of my designs to a really great British designer called Ella Doran. She is a does fabulous things with print and surface design, and has won many awards over the years for her innovative and fresh style. Just recently she has won two awards at this years 2010 Grand Designs Awards.The first was for best wallpaper/fabric for her GEO wallpaper. And the second was the Evening Standard Homes and Property best product of the year award, again for Ella's GEO wallpaper! Anyhoooo I'm thrilled to say that the gods have smiled nicely on me and Ella now has a range of my Little Girls Dresses and Womens French Ties for sale in her London shop.Wow! I'm thrilled to say the very very least. I was beautifully disorganised and did not take a single shot of anything that Ella has taken to sell. I really didn't think that I would be that lucky but there you go. I guess its a lesson in thinking more positively. Above picture is the shop front of Ella Doran at 46 Cheshire Street, E2 6EH.
And below some not very clear shots of the neck ties and dresses hanging inside the shop.

Free Patterns

In the early summer I was looking for a bright but single colour hat for my little girl. I wanted it quite plain so it would go with most things. I couldnt find what I wanted so I made it instead. It started with a colour pallet , pink of course , im not allowed to get away with anything else...

Then once I got the ok from the little lady herself it turned into this......




She likes it, she wears it, I cant ask for more than that. It doesnt always go that smoothly , she has strong opinions on fashion already. I thought I would make a few more in different colours with a view to selling them. If you want to take a closer look then they are on sale and display at Little Roots in Hitchins Bridge street, nos 31. This is a really lovely hairdressers just for children where they get to sit in airoplanes and cars and watch dvds while having there haircut. Really great shop, great prices and lovely owners. Check it out if you havent already at www.littleroots.net .



If you fancy making one yourself let me know by email and I can send you a free downloadable pdf of the pattern and full sewing instructions. Not sure I will be able to work out how to link it to the blog. But I can also send it as a paper pattern in the post as long as you dont mind covering the print and postage fee. It would be great to see how other people embellish it. Just let me know what size you would like.... Happy stitching!

Thank You!

A big thanks to every one who has contacted me and taken part in the weekend workshops. Im really glad there has been so much interest and its great to know im not the only stitcher in Hitchin!....there is always the danger of feeling its got to be going on in London or its just not 'happnin" it but you proved that's just not so! FAB!
The next workshops will be the Cushion, Little Girls Dress and a new one a Womens Skirt.
Ive added the the skirt as almost everyone who has come to the workshops has talked about the difficulty of finding a skirt that fits nicely. So where there is a will there is a way....The Cushion and Little Girls Dress worshop are as described before. So that just leaves a little forward on the skirt info.
Womens Skirt workshop:
You will draft and make an A line / pencil skirt to your own measurements. I will take you through all the stages of how to measure yourself corretly, how to transfer those measurments onto card and draft your own skirt pattern. You can then get fruity and decide on length and Silhouette. Once you have drafted your pattern we will cut and make a toille and check fit before making it in your chosen fabric. You will of course look fabulous! Its an all day worshop , 5 hours with lunch and will cost £90. All materials and printed instructions included. A max of 4 people per class so there is plenty of space for everyone to work in.
I think this will be a realy fun workshop and you will have a 'block' pattern drafted to your measurements that you can adapt again and again.